Get a taste of delicious Portuguese dishes


food in Hawaii. Joining us this morning — author of “A Portuguese Kitchen” .. Freelance writer and editor Wanda Adams. Wanda Adams, now a freelance writer and editor, author or editor of five cookbooks in print. Her latest is “A Portuguese Kitchen,” a book she’s been working on for more than a decade, full of not just recipes but interviews with elder 2nd generation Portuguese. Few understand why the Portuguese are here, I can briefly tell the story. Why the Portuguese are here: A friend of the Hawaiian government, George Hillebrandt, went to Madeira and learned that people there needed work. He knew Hawaii was looking for workers. The winegrowing regions in Madeira and the Azores were decimated by a disease called phyloxera and there had also been choler epidemic. People were deperate for work. Why the dishes were lost: Mostly, I think, because he Portuguese acclimated very rapidly. They intermarried freely in the second generation., particularly with Hawaiians, and they came to love Island foods as much as their own. Also, some foods weren’t readily available, or were expensive. And, although the Portuguese, by and large, are a proud people, I think they lost some of their sense of identity when they came here, especially because many were stigmatized because they served as lunas- supervisors-on the plantations and people didn’t like them. Vingha d’ahlos is the quintessential Portuguese thing: vinegar, garlic, hot peppers, salt. It’s used to marinate every kind of protein there is, although pork is most popular. However, at Thanksiving, many Portuguese still vinha d’ahlos their turkey. It is a form of brining and creates not only full-flavored meat but more tender meat. There are many versions: some people put pickling spice in the marinade, some people add spices such as cloves or cinnamon, some use wine as well as vinegar. It all depends on what your Grandma did. My book is available in all bookstores and at Mutual Publishing’s Kaimuki headquarters . My next signing is Dec. 5 at Basically Books in Hilo, 6 p.m. part of their First Friday series. Of all the dishes Portuguese loved when they first came here, only about five are known now: linguica , Portuguese bean soup, Portuguese sweet bread, vinha da ahlos , malassadas . Most other dishes were lost in the last generation; that’s what the book was about. Vinha d’ ahlos is a pickling marinade we use with many meats and fish, but especially at holidays: We make vinha d’ahlos turkey for Thankgsiving. I’ll teach the marinade, although, I must admit, it varies in every household. It’s about what you like, what your mother or grandmother did, what spicing you like.

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